It is 11pm and the sun is finally setting over the water, however, even at midnight the sky will get no darker than a deep blue with a glowing line of orange across the horizon. We’re sitting out on the balcony where the wood-fired sauna is turned up to 90 degrees just inside. In front of us there is an amazing view looking out over Lake Keitele, one of the largest lakes in Finland, and behind us pine forest rustles in the gentle breeze.
We are staying in a Finnish summer cottage (kesämökki in Finnish) for a couple of nights at Äänekoski, the heart of Finland’s Lakeland region. It has been, by far, one of my favorite places to visit in Finland. There are just a few small, basic, wooden cottages scattered through the forest. They are sparse enough to feel entirely private in this secluded part of the world.
What is a Finnish Summer Cottage?
There are over half a million summer cottages across Finland’s, that’s about one for every ten people. The cottages are typically small wooden houses with quite basic furnishings which are used by the Finns as their holiday getaway. While they’re commonly referred to as summer cottages, a direct translation from the Finnish name, they are actually used all year round.
Most summer cottages are built within short reach of water either by a lake or the sea. You will find plenty of cottages by the lakes around Central Finland, the Turku Archipelago, the Kvarken Archipelago, and even further up north in Lapland. With 187,888 lakes throughout Finland, there is ample opportunity to get some beautiful waterfront views.
No matter where the summer cottage is located, there tends to be one feature in common, the sauna. For the Finns, the sauna is truly ingrained in their culture, almost a daily ritual for most.
What to do at a Summer Cottage
You may think that escaping to Finland’s countryside means kicking back, relaxing, not doing much. If that’s what you are after, then perfect, park yourself at your cottage and don’t go anywhere for a few days. I guarantee you will leave feeling more relaxed than you’ve ever been.
However, if you’re more of an explorer like me and get itchy feet after sitting around for just a few hours then you’ll be looking for a little more to do.
Throughout our short stay at our summer cottage in Äänekoski we discovered there were plenty of activities to keep us busy throughout the day and night. Be it rummaging through the forest for wild blueberries, sweating it up in the sauna and hot tub, barbecuing at the lean-to in the forest, or exploring trails around the lakes, here are a few great options for you to consider.
Pick Berries and Mushrooms
Back home blueberries are found in supermarkets in small plastic containers, they’re usually quite expensive, and fairly bland, and have been in cold storage for months. In Finland it is completely the opposite. Fresh, organic, wild blueberries grow so densely on the forest floor that you can simply run your hand through the bushes and have breakfast. They’re free, juicy, sweet, delicious, and there seems to be no limit to how many you can pick.
Take note that wild blueberries don’t grow all year round, but during the summer months from July through to September. The first berries normally appear as the warmer summer temperatures begin.
Aside from blueberries, you can also find wild mushrooms, lingonberries, white currants and black currants just to name a few. Then there is the elusive cloudberry, the most sought-after berry in Finland which local go traipsing through mud and swamps in search of. If you’re on the hunt for any type of berry, I suggest asking the locals where to find them in your local area.
Sweat it out in the Sauna and Hot Tub
A weekend in a Finnish summer cottage just wouldn’t be complete without spending some quality sweating time in the sauna. Almost all summer cottages are either fitted with a private sauna or have access to a public sauna (at Äänekoski we had access to two saunas which were shared by five summer cottages).
There are two types of sauna which you may encounter. The first is the standard electrical sauna where you set and forget a temperature, this is the most common sauna outside of Finland, and the easiest to operate. The second type is the traditional Finnish smoke sauna where you start your own wood fire under a boiler packed with stones. It takes longer to heat up, generally allow two hours, however the Finns say this type of sauna has a softer heat and more enjoyable heat.
Once the sauna is properly hot, throw a bucket of water on the rocks and sweat it up for about 10 to 15 minutes. Then go for a quick dip in the cool lake to give your body a bit of a temperature shock, it’s meant to be good for your heart. Of course, the Finns don’t only do this once but repeat it four to five times over an hour or so.
And to answer the commonly asked question, can you drink alcohol in the sauna? The Finns would definitely say yes to that! Nothing goes down better than a cold Karhu Beer between 15-minute sauna sessions.
Explore the Hiking Trails
The Lakeland region has a myriad of hiking trails which allow you to explore stunning lake scenery and Finland’s tranquil forests. You really won’t have to venture too far from your summer cottage to start exploring.
We found some of the most beautiful hiking trails in Finnish Lakeland were in the Leivonmäki National Park, about one hour south of Jyväskylä. The beautiful Esker trail follows a long, narrow, forested ridge extending out into the lake. At the narrowest section, the land is less than 100 meters wide and surrounded by a huge stretch of water on either side. I highly suggest this walk around sunset. Remember to pack mosquito spray!
Go Fishing
Perch, Pikeperch and Pike are three of the most common fish you’ll find in Finland’s Lakes, and there’s plenty of them around. Some might say these are just game fish, but when cooked the right way they taste pretty good! What could be better than catching a fish in the afternoon, smoking it over the fire, then eating it for dinner by the lake watching a late sunset?
Antti, the owner of our summer cottage in Äänekoski – Majoitus & Kalastus Vonkale – is a well experienced local fisherman. He knows exactly where and when to fishing, what baits and lures to use, and even where to land your hook so that you have, the best chance of getting a catch! He runs fishing tours around the lake, generally from 3-8 hours in duration. How long you go for is totally up to you.
…………….
Whether you’re visiting Finland for a short time, a long time, or even moving here, a weekend in a Finnish summer cottage is an experience you absolutely must have. I’d suggest planning to stay at least two or three nights so you can properly explore the area, get the know the locals, and have time to just relax the Finnish way.
As many of these summer cottages are located further away from the city centers, you will usually need your own transport to get there. Hiring a car in Finland is quite easy and can be surprisingly cheap. Check out how I saved over $1000 on a rental car at Helsinki airport, comparing six of the major companies. We used this car to get around Finland on an epic three-week road trip.
Author Bio
Josh Shephard the photographer, writer and intrepid traveler behind The Lost Passport. He spent just under three weeks exploring Finland in the middle of summer enjoying the late-night sunsets, probably too many blueberries, and daily sauna sessions. Be sure to visit him on Facebook and Instagram for lots of insider travel tips around the world.
Join my community!
I love working on Engineer on tour, but it is a time-consuming thing to make. I am always improving and trying to bring you the best from photography and travel.
Currently, my main platform is my Facebook Photo Page. I will be happy to see you among my followers’ families and engage in a friendly discussion. Let me know how I’m doing and feel free to suggest some topics to write about.
You can also find me on other social media:
FACEBOOK 2 (blog updates only) / TWITTER / INSTAGRAM / INSTAGRAM 2 (only Finland) / PINTEREST
Pinterest:
