Let me introduce you to Kilpisjärvi. Within a hundred kilometers to the Norwegian border, the scenery changes drastically. Gradually, trees become smaller, and mountains appear on the horizon. This place is uniquely different from the rest of Finland!
I like to call it miniature-Norway. With a body of water located between two mountains, it bears some resemblance to Norwegian fjords. But proportions are significantly smaller. In Kilpirjärvi, the focus moves onto Nordic forests. The peaks are just high enough to see everything them the top, and, unlike Norway, the hikes are easily manageable.
This post is done in collaboration with Onnibus. More about it in the end.
How to plan a trip
“When to visit Kilpisjärvi?” The most common question and, it doesn’t have any simple answer. Vibrant autumn colors come to Kilpisjärvi in September but on a different date each year. After a week, all the colorful leaves are gone. On average, autumn colors come in the middle of the month. But if you book your trip in advance, there is a risk you miss them.
Here is what you can do. At the beginning of September, google “kilpisjärvi webcam.” Start checking the colors of the trees daily. When half of the trees turn yellow – it is the right time to go.
(We were waiting for trees to become red and nearly missed the time window. Note that trees are mostly yellow, red is on the ground, not visible on the webcam.)
Kilpisjärvi in pictures
As it was our first time, we took two of the most popular tracks: Malla track and track to the top of Saana. Here are both of them in pictures.
Malla tracks
Malla is a strict natural reserve where you are only allowed to walk along the marked tracks. There are two main ones: 11 km. to the point of three borders (Finland, Norway, Sweden), and 3.5 km Pikku Malla track to the top of the mountain. Two times a day, there is a boat going to the point of three borders.
Our initial plan was to take the boat and then walk all the way back. But we were unlucky; the boat left 5 min before the schedule. Just when we arrived. I had to change plans. I walked a bit along the main Malla track and then went to the mountain top on sunset.
Saana mountain
It’s a 1029 meter high rocky summit. We started it in the evening, hoping to reach the top on sunset. There is a small grilling hut in the middle of the way, and we ended up talking to people there for too long. When we made around 3/4 of the way, it got completely dark, so we turned back.
On the next day, when we missed the boat, we split. My friend went to the top of Saana, and I went to walk around Malla.
Tips for traveling Kilpisjärvi
- If you compare it to Norway – hikes are manageable. For me personally, it meant that I am able to carry more photo gear.
- If you look for souvenirs or trekking equipment – check out the local supermarket first. Prices are better than in hotels and selection is much better than in an average supermarket.
- Take a look at the local flea market; it is across the road from the Retkeilykeskus. You may find some lovely local things.
- In general, water in the Kilpisjärvi area is safe to drink straight from waterfalls, streams, rivers, or lakes. It is recommended to use purification tablets, boil or filter it.
- It can get extremely windy, especially closer to mountain tops. Make sure you are dressed appropriately.
- Unless it rains, it is safe to hike in the dark. If you plan to come back after sunset – take a flashlight.
- Camping is not allowed in natural reserves. The closest place to camp to Saana and Malla tracks in front of the bridge, which starts the Malla hike.
- If you don’t travel by car – rent a bicycle at Retkeilykeskus. For instance, the distance between the entry point to Malla hike and the nearest supermarket is 6-7 km.
How was it shot
I used Canon R6 and I gave my backup camera – Canon 6D with a kit and 50mm lens to my friend. I mostly used Canon EF 16-35 mm IS and Canon RF 70-200mm F/2.8 IS lenses. I used Canon RF 35mm F/1.8 IS when it was dark.
The 16-35mm lens is a popular option for landscapes. However, as I got higher onto the mountain, I started using the telephoto. It is perfect for picking up the distant landscape details.
I have chosen to go to Malla instead of Saana for a reason. Higher peaks don’t always make better images. I would argue that you should choose a moderate-high peak, preferably with a cliff. Then you can picture the highest mountain from there.
About Onnibus
We’ve chosen Onnibus for a few reasons. It stops at the major hotels in Kilpisjarvi, and there is an easy bus connection in Rovaniemi if you start your journey outside Lapland.
You’ve probably seen Onnibus double-decker busses, but on Kilpisjärvi-Rovaniemi route operates Onnibus Flex. It is a single-decker with additional space for the baggage and an option to take a bicycle. It is a long ride, but the views outside the window do worth your time!
